Peach : HARROW DIAMOND Semi-Dwarf (Bailey) (Orchard Grade)
$47.95
An 'orchard grade' is a tree that may be somewhat shorter, slightly crooked, or a bit scratched, or for some other reason is not a perfect front lawn specimen. These trees will work just as well in an orchard as a first or number one would, since they still produce the very same fruit.
This is one we've brought back due to positive customer feedback on both fruit quality and winter survival. Some growers refer to Harrow Diamond as the first really good peach of the season. Medium sized, red blushed fruit has sweet, juicy, non browning yellow flesh that is freestone when fully ripe. Significant disease resistance across the board.
SELF-FERTILE | ZONE 4/5 | HARVEST: EARLY-MID AUG
Everyone would love picking peaches off their very own tree, but for many of us here in Canada it remains an elusive dream. The bitter, relentless cold of some recent winters took a terrible toll, but true to their fickle nature, some trees survived in unlikely locations, while others in supposedly ideal settings gave up the ghost. Protection from frigid winds is almost certainly a benefit. The take-home message? Be aware of the risks, but stay cautiously optimistic and keep planting a tree or two.
1.25-2m (4-6ft.) bareroot trees
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Growing Tips
Peach trees are usually unaffected by pests or diseases in northern areas, the occasional exception being peach leaf curl. PLC is not a fatal problem but it does need to be controlled if you get hit with it. Look for crinkled or puckered foliage in spring. Remove affected leaves and compost them. A good preventative is to spray the dormant trees with copper in the fall and again in the spring before bud break (See page 63). Do NOT spray during the growing season as it will cause all the leaves to drop.
Prune your peach trees in May, once they have leafed out, but don’t prune off all the new wood that grew last summer. Peach trees fruit on that last season growth. Trim any dead or winterkilled branches and leave most of the new wood. Occasionally you can make a few bold cuts back to a vigorous branch closer
to the trunk if your tree becomes too leggy. As the tree matures, you may want to thin out the branches quite aggressively.
One of the key factors that determines cold-hardiness for tender fruit trees such as apricots and peaches is how well they harden off in the fall. Any activity that stimulates growth should be avoided after August 1. This includes fertilizing, overly frequent watering and pruning.
Stop! Do not plant your peach or nectarine tree in that sheltered nook of the south side of your house. Although well meant, this very common mistake is almost certain to doom your new tree. Of course extreme cold is hard on peach trees, but the warm noonday sun on a late winter day is actually worse. A dark tree trunk will warm up considerably but then the temperature drops and the bark refreezes. To avoid this fluctuation, look for a planting site in the winter shade (north side) of a building or group of evergreens. In other word, close enough to the building to be shaded from the low winter sun but far enough back to get full exposure in the summertime when the sun is high. The goal is uniform cold so as
not to interrupt dormancy. Some growers white wash the trunks and lower branches of older peach trees in late fall with a cheap interior latex paint to protect from sun damage in winter. Young trees should have trunks wrapped with a light coloured blanket or covering.
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